Search found 30 matches

by mojavelimestone
Wed Jan 06, 2021 10:00 am
Forum: Errors, Changes and Omissions
Topic: Wall Of Misfortune grade adjustments.
Replies: 0
Views: 22139

Wall Of Misfortune grade adjustments.

Now that they have seen a few more ascents, some of the grades on The Wall Of Misfortune (page 287- 293) could use a little adjustment.
Prairie Fire (page 292) upgraded from 12a to 12b.
Black Reign (page 292) downgraded to 12a/b from 12b.
Lunar Rovin' (page 291) upgraded from 12a to 12b.
by mojavelimestone
Wed Jan 06, 2021 9:53 am
Forum: New Routes
Topic: Cactus Wall. Page 120/121.
Replies: 0
Views: 28289

Cactus Wall. Page 120/121.

Cactus Clapper 5.10b
This route goes up the wall and bulge between Cholla Dance and Thieving Prick (10b's).
by mojavelimestone
Thu Dec 31, 2020 12:23 pm
Forum: New Routes
Topic: Wall Of Misfortune Page 289.
Replies: 0
Views: 29262

Wall Of Misfortune Page 289.

Project 3 has now been redpointed. Natural Selection 70' 5.12c/d Cole Paiement. Dec 2020. Begin 12' left of Helter Skelter. Go up the back wall of the cave to the obvious horizontal weakness below the roof. Make a big move to reach a large rail, and then continue on small holds, pulling onto the sla...
by mojavelimestone
Mon Dec 28, 2020 9:02 am
Forum: Errors, Changes and Omissions
Topic: Middendorf Crack. Page 314
Replies: 0
Views: 52129

Middendorf Crack. Page 314

Rack: 5 x 1.25", single rack 1.75" to 4", medium wires.
by mojavelimestone
Mon Dec 21, 2020 7:53 pm
Forum: Errors, Changes and Omissions
Topic: Stink Bug. Page 306.
Replies: 0
Views: 44392

Stink Bug. Page 306.

A better rack would be a few cams from 1.75" to 3". Several medium and large wires for the longish runouts between the upper bolts.
by mojavelimestone
Mon Dec 21, 2020 7:49 pm
Forum: Errors, Changes and Omissions
Topic: Air Farce One. Page 310.
Replies: 0
Views: 25876

Air Farce One. Page 310.

Air Farce One now has 7 b's. The route can be done as a sport climb with a longish stick-clip. A nice climb with fairly sustained climbing to a technical crux at the second last bolt.
by mojavelimestone
Mon Dec 21, 2020 7:44 pm
Forum: New Routes
Topic: Rainbow Canyon. Page 310.
Replies: 0
Views: 21253

Rainbow Canyon. Page 310.

Un-named 60' 5.11d Andy Ross. Dec 21, 2020. This route climbs directly up the arete between 2 Tuft 4 You and Sexual Basalt. Start 5' right of 2 Tuft 4 You. Climb the lower arete to a roof. Move left around the roof and make hard moves back right to regain the arete. Finish up the arete to the ancho...
by mojavelimestone
Mon Dec 21, 2020 7:38 pm
Forum: Errors, Changes and Omissions
Topic: Meathead, Page 316. Updated description
Replies: 0
Views: 23893

Meathead, Page 316. Updated description

Meathead 130' 5.11c Jerry Handren, Andy Ross. Dec 20, 2020. Single rack to 4". Triple 1", Quadruple 1.25". A couple of large wires. This route requires a bit of strategy to manage the rope drag. The author led the initial crack on one rope, attatched to the harness by twin carabiners...
by mojavelimestone
Mon Dec 21, 2020 7:26 pm
Forum: Errors, Changes and Omissions
Topic: Idol Hands, page 316
Replies: 0
Views: 20727

Idol Hands, page 316

The description should read.
Climb the groove direct to the anchor of MIND THE GAP rather than Idle Man.
by mojavelimestone
Wed Dec 16, 2020 3:51 pm
Forum: New Routes
Topic: Urban Crag, page 108.
Replies: 0
Views: 13991

Urban Crag, page 108.

Bricks And Mortar 80' 5.7
This previously runout route has now been rebolted to make a more useful moderate. It now has 6 b's.